義大利葡萄酒品嚐會/Italian Wine Tasting

2008年3月29號這一天，我們參加了由Whisky and Wine主辦的義大利葡萄酒品嚐會。今天的酒包括了從Pinot Grigio到Barolo的9種不同酒款。因為考慮到今天的酒種比較多，我們決定要把我們的品酒誌做到最精簡。

Whiskey and Wine廣泛地選擇了義大利的酒款，也同時顧慮到了台灣人的口味，所以這些酒的單寧並不太重，也不太像一般我們在傳統義大利酒款中所期待的結構。另外，他們還選了一些台灣較熟悉的法國或美國的葡萄種類所混合的酒。大部分選的酒都是適合即飲的，當然還有一些是陳年之後會展現更佳風味的酒款。

On Mar. 29, 2008, we attended a tasting of Italian wines sponsored by Whisky and Wine, where we enjoyed sampling nine Italians ranging from Pinot Grigio to Barolo. Because of the quantity of wines tasted, we have elected to keep our notes on these wines exceptionally (for us) concise.

The selection chosen by Whisky and Wine gives a nice cross-section of Italian wines. However, the wines were chosen to be acceptable to Taiwanese tastes. Thus the wines are not very tannic or traditional in structure as might be expected of Italian wines. Also, a couple of the selections were chosen because they are mixes of more familiar grapes grown in France and America. Most the wines chosen are drinkable now, though a few selections would undoubtedly benefit from some bottle aging.

1)“Late Vintage” – Pinot Grigio – PODOC 14.5%, 2006 (white)

Darren: 沒有什麼特別突出的味道，帶點淡淡的鉛筆橡皮擦的味道。飽滿的酸味微微帶點香蕉的口感。夏天喝蘇打汽水的感覺。13 (一般)
A neutral nose, with a slight pencil eraser smell. Solid acidity with a slight banana taste. A summertime soda pop. 13 (Adequate)

Venus: 淡淡的色澤卻有個嗆鼻的香氣。複雜濃郁多層次的口感，卻少了點灰皮諾一般有的，清新的蔬菜味。
A light color with a prickly smell. A complex, heavy-body, and with different tiers of taste, yet lacks the vegetal taste of normal pinot grigio.

2) Barbera D'Alba DOC “Superiore” 2005

Darren: 烤焦吐司與果醬的香氣。一入口強烈的酸度迎面而來，伴隨著一點橡木與黑醋栗的口感。初夏的紅酒，像是義大利版的薄酒萊新酒。13.5 (還不錯)
A burnt toast and jam nose. A real hit of acidity up front with some oak and cassis flavors. A light summertime red – an Italian style Beaujolais-Nouveau. 13.5 (Fair)

Venus: 重重的單寧酸接著順口的橡木味。餘味平順簡單。喝完之後杯中的香氣絕佳，聞起來像是黑醋果醬。
Heavy tannin carries a smooth oaky taste. A simple and smooth wine. The empty glass smells like the black currant jam in my fridge.

3) Montecucco Sangiovese DOC 2006, 14.5%

Darren: 一抹淡淡的松露香味帶出富麗的香料與花草氣息。辛香料與壺焦味道的酒款。16 (好+)。我們隨後買了這款酒回家。
A rich herbal and floral nose with hints of truffles. A spicy and peppery wine. 16 (Good +). We purchased some of this very nice wine.

Venus: 酸度適中地把這款酒濃郁的香料口感都襯托了出來。黑胡椒、羅勒的香味讓人還想再嚐一口。適合即開即飲的酒，非常平民化卻不失格調的酒。
A moderate acidity brings with it a herbal taste. The smells of black pepper and basil tempt you to take another sip. It's a bottle for opening and drinking now. Very friendly, graceful and classy.

4) Brunello di Montalcino 2002

Darren: 聞起來是木頭與青草的氣息。帶有草本口感，相當飽實的酒體結構。15.5 (好+)
A woody and grassy nose. A solid structure with a herbaceous taste. 15.5 (Good +)

Venus: 紫羅蘭香皂的味道帶出青梅的口感，最後在口中轉變香香的甘草味。
A smell of violets with the taste of young plum upfront, followed by the flavor of licorice.

5) 2003 Vino Nobile di Monepulciano “Vecchia Cantina” DOCG Riserva

Darren: 大地的味道，乘滿了菸草與皮革的香味，深層還帶了一點紫羅蘭的香氣。相當複雜的一款酒。滑順的單寧酸與梅子口味結合，並帶著煙薰的餘韻。陳年之後，想必酒體內的花香特質會更為突出。15 (好)
An earthy nose, replete with tobacco and leather, and a hint of violet underneath. Complex. A smooth tannic structure with a plum flavor and a smoky finish. With age, some of the floral character should emerge. 15 (Good)

Venus: 紫羅蘭的香味配上青草的口感，適合搭配起士料理飲用。
Smells of violet with a green grass taste. Have with cheese.

6) ATEO Sant Antimo Rosso DOC 2004

Darren: 水果香氣 – 以香草及橡木為基礎的酒體結構，並以蘋果糖葫蘆覆蓋。口感是飽實煙薰橡木的結構，包含著水果與黑胡椒的味道。13.5 (還不錯)
A fruity nose – candied apples, underpinned by vanilla/oakiness. Tastes of fruit and pepper with a solid smoky oak structure. 13.5 (Fair)

Venus: 濃郁香料的口感。重重的單寧卻不嗆鼻，相當順口的混合酒。
Heavy herbal taste with strong tannins, but not acidic. A very smooth blend.

7) Fattoria La Castellina IGT Toscano “Reale” 2004

Darren: 飽實的甜菜根類植物的香味支配了整支酒的氣息，並帶有綠色蔬菜的口感。13 (一般)
A meaty, beet-root type plant smell predominates. Herbaceous green vegetables on the palatte. 13 (Adequate)

Venus: 些許的菸草味與根莖類蔬菜的味道，帶出淡淡的橡木味。一款充滿大地口感的梅洛酒，與一般法國的果實感梅洛，或甚至北美的大地口感梅洛不同。
Some smell of tobacco and root vegetables brings a hint of an oak taste. It’s an earthy merlot; different from the French fruity merlot, or even the N. American earthy merlots.

8) 2005 Chianti Classico DOCG “La Castellina” Vendemmia

Darren: 細緻的氣息，帶著一股莫名愉快的氨水(尿液)的味道。飽實的單寧酸結構，我卻無法進入這支酒的細緻口感。雖然這支酒比之前喝的酒款細緻，
但因為我的味覺已經相當疲憊，無法公正地給這支酒評分。
A delicate nose, with an oddly pleasant ammonia (pee) smell. A solid tannic structure, but I cannot access the delicate flavors as my palate is burned-out, so I have not rated this wine as it wouldn't be fair.

Venus: 淡淡地清新香氣，單寧很重的一款酒。
Light, fresh smell. It is a very young and tannic bottle.

9) Barolo DOCG“Serralunga”2003

Darren: 大地氣息與黑醋栗的香氣。厚實酒體的果醬口感與厚重的單寧酸結構。需要在陳年4-8年。14 (還不錯)
An earthy and black currant nose. A full-bodied, jammy taste with solid tannic structure. Needs 4-8 years of aging. 14 (Fair)

Venus: 帶著果香的口香糖味道，喝下口卻有著些許爆竹的礦石味單寧。有著強烈的紅酒性格，需要陳放的酒。
A taste of fruit gum, but with fireworks, minerality and solid tannic structure. This bottle has a strong red wine character. Still needs some time to age.

結論：我個人喜歡義大利葡萄酒，他們有屬於舊世界的浪漫與優雅。雖然義大利釀酒技術在近20年來進行了現代化與理論化的過程，有些義大利酒的風土條件卻已經超過2000年了。許多傳統的義大利葡萄種類，有著他的傳統與對釀酒學家的重要性，卻也只有在義大利才有種植。簡短來說，義大利有著法國有的歷史、風土條件、多樣性與釀酒技術，但是同品質的酒卻比法國的同級酒便宜。啜飲義大利！
Conclusion: Personally I love Italian wines, they have the romance and grace of the Old World. Some Italian terroirs are over 2,000 years old, while Italian winemaking techniques have been undergoing a real period of modernization and rationalization over the last 20 years. Many traditional Italian grapes, despite their long history and importance to oenology, are only grown in Italy. In short Italy has all of the history, terroir, diversity and winemaking technology of France, but the Italian wines are at a fraction the price of a comparable quality French wine. Drink Italian!



Darren Haughn & Venus Chen (c) 2008-04-012